tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37479385902640973522023-11-16T02:52:42.388-08:00Fashion Design White ProjectNatasha Leannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05387219538011289713noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3747938590264097352.post-60321004286878631982017-10-26T10:52:00.002-07:002017-10-26T10:57:07.507-07:00WEEK 11 - PATTERN CUTTING SESSION 2 PERSONAL REFLECTION<div style="text-align: center;">
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<u><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pattern
cutting session 2 – Anthropometrics and beginning the bodice</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">12th October 2017</span></span></span></u><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;">I</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">n my second
session of pattern cutting, the group started by talking about anthropometric
measurements by measuring ourselves and others. I was used as an example for
the group when we were being taught each measurement that would be taken to
determine your body shape or use the set of measurements to create a pattern.</span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Mesomorph
– pear or triangle<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Endomorph
– Apple shaped<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Ectomorph
– Rectangular shape <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Hourglass
– balanced at top and bottom with smaller middle<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">During this
session I learnt a great deal about the areas of the body you need to measure
when fitting a model or creating a size chart for yourself. After measuring my
friend and being measured myself I determined my own body shape as an
hourglass. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When
measuring like this to create a size chart it is extremely important to allow
for <b>tolerance</b> ease around areas like the elbow. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Understanding
the fabric<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Before
beginning to work the fabric at all, I was introduced to the </span>selvage<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> mode of
warp threads. The<b> warp </b>of a fabric runs vertically, and the<b> weft </b>of a fabric
runs horizontally. The </span>selvage<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> is the edge of the fabric where the two threads
begin to fray. These are called <b>grain lines.</b><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The warp
thread is the strongest of the two, all patterns run along the warp thread. It
is important when making and remaking a toile that you follow the same grain
line for each prototype – changing the grain lines can alter the size of the
garment as each way has a different give.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The true
bias of a fabric is found at </span>degrees<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> from the weft line, this is where the fabric
has the most flexibility and will stretch the most.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Starting
the bodice<o:p></o:p></span></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To begin
creating the bodice shape, I started with a piece of calico that measured 35cm
across, and approx. 55cm down. This was a standard measurement given to us by
Karen – taken from the stand. *insert photo from notes*<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I then:</span></span></div>
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<li style="text-align: left;"> <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; text-indent: -18pt;">Plotted
3cm’s in on either side and drew a vertical line down from this. (to allow for
space to pin on the centre front and back</span><span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Marked
these two lines as the centre front and centre back</span></span></li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Exactly
half way across the fabric, marked a vertical line down the middle that is
where I am going to cut it in half</span></li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Cut
my fabric in half, leaving me with a piece for the front and back.</span></li>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCQuSNJ62Z3NuCpYEwn1JSYvFccoxZZJ_NAzUv3y5X1RpkmBKT9Z3aBnCx-HVDE9Zm0mcLvEoaL-dLHOPfk50eta808F_rhu_uOkeVs4vnCN-Q0uw3rbAzuaknWc8VtPWUZab5pxCIog/s1600/20171012_113722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCQuSNJ62Z3NuCpYEwn1JSYvFccoxZZJ_NAzUv3y5X1RpkmBKT9Z3aBnCx-HVDE9Zm0mcLvEoaL-dLHOPfk50eta808F_rhu_uOkeVs4vnCN-Q0uw3rbAzuaknWc8VtPWUZab5pxCIog/s400/20171012_113722.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black tape to highlight important lines on the body to follow</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Having
previously marked all the lines on my stand using black tape, I was now ready
to apply my fabric and start manipulating it. This is where the technique
became the potato exercise in my previous session. I lined up the centre front
and pinned it in place.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next, I cut off the excess fabric around the
neck, and smoothed the fabric over the bodice, pinning it at the side. Cutting
into the neck line slightly allowed the fabric to give and bend around the neck
easier, I pinned this once completed. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">I then
created the bust dart by finding the ‘bubble’ of fabric around the front area
of the bodice, pinching it into a wedge shape that starts at the shoulder and
runs down to the bust point. This dart should be around 4cm deep.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Creating the
front waist dart was next. The same technique was used as the bust point,
pinching the bubble of fabric and meeting the bust point and pinning in place.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this
point I cut away some of the excess fabric around the armhole and snipped into
the waist line as I did on the neck to help the fabric lie flat and release the
tension.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBIdXs0yLyWgmdQJIJmsoqltvhDpdZAunSsekUwKPaBzXJV229qEhWuVRqIjNCeDzuVZ7dvd1Qw_3rPpaBqHc_3rKhv6_EhKyXH5S47OwwBzFnv7OD3Ye28Sv0EVfQ4WtmAw9xgSdyYV4/s1600/20171012_124515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBIdXs0yLyWgmdQJIJmsoqltvhDpdZAunSsekUwKPaBzXJV229qEhWuVRqIjNCeDzuVZ7dvd1Qw_3rPpaBqHc_3rKhv6_EhKyXH5S47OwwBzFnv7OD3Ye28Sv0EVfQ4WtmAw9xgSdyYV4/s320/20171012_124515.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThkZ6qcEjvI2XH7osJWjgJZ51iTsMh2CLMU7QX5reJi-byXY8qfrmj01FLBU2ZO7UZhYh7LFs1g0LgAGOZE8g4MwR0QceIgbQnJNvbec1swzRIoqNIXxvMHAG51Gcws8HDumICPsyTko/s1600/20171012_123758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThkZ6qcEjvI2XH7osJWjgJZ51iTsMh2CLMU7QX5reJi-byXY8qfrmj01FLBU2ZO7UZhYh7LFs1g0LgAGOZE8g4MwR0QceIgbQnJNvbec1swzRIoqNIXxvMHAG51Gcws8HDumICPsyTko/s320/20171012_123758.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; text-align: center; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> The next step was to apply my back piece to the centre back
line on the stand, I created the two back darts the same way as the front –
shoulder dart being 2cm wide and roughly 7 long and waist dart was 4cm deep and
filters out to the underarm point.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Smoothing the fabric around the body to meet with the front,
and pinning at the side, again I then trimmed some excess away around the arm
hole and snipped into the waist as before.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bringing the sides together, following the black lines on the
stand to meet, and I pinned starting from the underarm down to the waist. I
repeated this on the shoulder at the top. At this point I cut away any excess
fabric on the sides, and opened up the arm hole a little more if necessary. <o:p></o:p></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was at this point that the session was finished, I was going to continue my bodice next week having got to a good point to end today. I made sure that I had pinned the fabric to itself and not the stand, to enable easy removal of the fabric. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">This session was really enjoyable, I found that it put my previous session into context as well. Seeing how what I did with the potato translated into fashion 3D manipulation. I am looking forward to my next session and seeing how the garment continues to develop. </span></div>
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Natasha Leannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05387219538011289713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3747938590264097352.post-85649971398061273932017-10-25T11:59:00.002-07:002017-10-25T12:01:18.882-07:00WEEK 11 - 2D DRAWING PERSONAL REFLECTION<br />
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<u><b>First 2D Drawing Session with Emma - 10th October 2017</b></u></div>
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The begining of week 11 started with my first drawing and 2D session. This was a chance for me to begin in my 2D sketchbook and start creating visual and experimental work. In pairs, we were given one word. Our challenge was to represent the initial reactions we had to the word through use of calico and other materials on the stand. I was very happy to do this, I had been eager to work on the stand. My word was '<b>sheltered</b>'. </div>
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Initially in my pair, we brainstormed the first words that popped into our heads when presented with the sheet of paper. Without thinking too much, we began working onto the stand - to keep the outcome as organic as possible.</div>
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Using a variety of white fabrics, we began covering the mannequin in a way that resembled protection and shielding to us. Starting at the shoulders was important to represent this, we made this the focal point of the outcome.<br />
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Knotting, scrunching, wrapping - any way to manipulate the fabric to create layers and 'protection'. The bottom half of the outcome was full of volume to balance out the shoulders.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGXPk4qoFuqKRU9T9qiqDmNj5Z-87rZt95OhQjBDMDN6NzzZhlxy2G7DsYYFNsH0A6V12aX2LuKlOTQ3D1qFU28M-GaCQO-tkE01fTEBC7AB2LyzinvUZYPWYIOMRxwRc8Ir9LqHoOwg/s1600/20171010_101624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGXPk4qoFuqKRU9T9qiqDmNj5Z-87rZt95OhQjBDMDN6NzzZhlxy2G7DsYYFNsH0A6V12aX2LuKlOTQ3D1qFU28M-GaCQO-tkE01fTEBC7AB2LyzinvUZYPWYIOMRxwRc8Ir9LqHoOwg/s320/20171010_101624.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYrhM0-m_jWOwnPBwziFXvfTyzj7L1oQzM4F0awdogTo_pID2spGDGAJoBXkFlHe7ILe_wOdxSBXfnhSBQz_vTLorAFnIfCg-XGIujgGvwAuie-KxF2AYvAllWwSHvGDZA3g9Uk8QbXro/s1600/20171010_101253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYrhM0-m_jWOwnPBwziFXvfTyzj7L1oQzM4F0awdogTo_pID2spGDGAJoBXkFlHe7ILe_wOdxSBXfnhSBQz_vTLorAFnIfCg-XGIujgGvwAuie-KxF2AYvAllWwSHvGDZA3g9Uk8QbXro/s320/20171010_101253.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Back view Front view </div>
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The main features of the final outcome that reflected the word we were given was the shoulders and layering around the neck. The volume at the bottom was a good area to present the two contrasting shades of white. We added small pleats around the neck also and a twisted waist detail. Pinning the outcome to the mannequin was something that took a while to get a hang of - the base of the mannequin is not something I have worked with before and it took a little while to get the pins in securely. </div>
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For the rest of the session I completed an observational drawing of my creation. I drew first in pencil, then developed it further with a very fine liner. I tried to capture the creases and volume of the fabric in the drawing. It was really beneficial to draw like this - from life and from a figure shape, it is something that I will be focusing on doing more in the future to gain awareness of proportions. </div>
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Natasha Leannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05387219538011289713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3747938590264097352.post-55041074411200939322017-10-25T11:34:00.002-07:002017-10-25T11:34:25.101-07:00WEEK 10 - INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES PERSONAL REFLECTION<br />
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<u>Introduction to Industrial sewing machines - 6th October 2017</u></div>
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Following on from my pattern cutting induction, this week I also took part in an induction on using the industrial sewing machines with Caz. This was a workshop I had been really looking forward to as I have used machines in the past, but I was keen to see the difference when using an industrial style machine.<br />
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The first thing I did, after the health and safety briefing, was thread my machine. This already had a lot more steps to it than a domestic machine, and once using it for the first time I found out that it also has a lot more power. The machines are fitted with a lever by the knee to rise and lower the needle which I found very helpful.<br />
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The first step was just getting used to how the machine worked, creating straight lines on calico to get the hang of how much pressure to apply to the pedal etc. I found it quite easy to operate in terms of this. <b>It is necessary to always do a back track at the start and end of a line of stitching. </b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Straight line created with the same outer width.<br /><div style="text-align: left;">
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<br />At this point I was introduced to an <b>overlocker</b> - something that I have never used before. The purpose of this machine is to sew over the edge of a piece of fabric to hem or join. They work extremely fast and because the cut the fabric as well as stitching, <b>it is important to make sure that you allow enough for this to happen to avoid losing valuable cm's on your fabrics. </b><div>
<br />Next, we began learning some basic stitches that could be used when joining pattern pieces together when designing. <div>
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<u><b>Closed Stitch</b></u> - This stitch was overlocked first and then created. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibTDRjSwNhSVZ8-u0LMiRGkoN0JFBZ1CeME_UncLi_vm2ufALqk-3o2vla3Ko9g0sTxGQUDlXouEhRAaT8YqkJPG6VbgqicOy6aucDVSh8nxbxN8TK4JTVWK-OK8NIb6KudhfX_0xS5Dc/s1600/20171025_164817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibTDRjSwNhSVZ8-u0LMiRGkoN0JFBZ1CeME_UncLi_vm2ufALqk-3o2vla3Ko9g0sTxGQUDlXouEhRAaT8YqkJPG6VbgqicOy6aucDVSh8nxbxN8TK4JTVWK-OK8NIb6KudhfX_0xS5Dc/s320/20171025_164817.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A closed stitch that has been overlocked first</td></tr>
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The first thing I did was <b>overlock</b> both separate pieces of fabric together before stitching it. This is an optional method - you can do it before or after, I wanted to experiment with which way I found easier. After overlocking I stitched within the seam allowance the 2 pieces together to create a closed stitch. </div>
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<b><u>Open Stitch </u></b><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">open stitch created by overlocking afterwards<br /><div style="text-align: left;">
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The open stitch was created by first stitching the two pieces together within the seam allowance, then opening out each side and overlocking them one by one. This was a little trickier as you have to be extremely careful not to overlock too close to the stitch - however I think I preferred this method. </div>
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<b><u>Delicate fabric seams (french stitch) </u></b></div>
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The next stitch I did was a french stitch. I learnt that this was used on delicate fabrics such a chiffon or silk to minimise the appearance of stitches through the fine material. </div>
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<li>stitch half cm </li>
<li>always backtrack</li>
<li>place wrong sides together</li>
<li>press stitch to the top of the fabric</li>
<li>re stitch again half cm with the right sides together, open out and press. There should be no raw edges showing.</li>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4o6y9xQyqFBwrgO1RRb9AUZi13dfSSUGr9nT8jRKuwLE7sIu8voSrrfOaChbJusD5JAcgItRewlvohpMt7xbU-cSKhmUX8Z04WnLifmOWRro1wT5XEsjZMa9WigBzQ1j-IdZmxFpwQhQ/s1600/20171025_165020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4o6y9xQyqFBwrgO1RRb9AUZi13dfSSUGr9nT8jRKuwLE7sIu8voSrrfOaChbJusD5JAcgItRewlvohpMt7xbU-cSKhmUX8Z04WnLifmOWRro1wT5XEsjZMa9WigBzQ1j-IdZmxFpwQhQ/s320/20171025_165020.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">French stitch on delicate fabric</td></tr>
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<br /><u style="font-weight: bold;">Mock Lap Seam</u> - Used for denim and extra strong hold. To create this, I put the wrong sides of the fabric together (the opposite for a standard stitch) and stitched a 2cm seam. I then cut <b>one </b>half of the fabric after the seam away, steaming <b>backwards </b>the longer side of the two to meet the stitch line. Then steamed once more the opposite way and 'edge stitch' (by lining the edge with the side of the foot to create a very close stitch) to finish. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wrong side of the denim feat. a mock stitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmq6wRpevAnHDKUtyiAuXNmYzLVXtiunrX7_8CCtpftN3BxUIMjzG-mTbtUdVcyeWSJ8U5Ka3I6U_NB8Tx1wRpWAWr-BethXwkU2uC9ROlFY7R1tMasecE1QaPS3cZBgx9NXIWTfMdaqI/s1600/20171025_165041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmq6wRpevAnHDKUtyiAuXNmYzLVXtiunrX7_8CCtpftN3BxUIMjzG-mTbtUdVcyeWSJ8U5Ka3I6U_NB8Tx1wRpWAWr-BethXwkU2uC9ROlFY7R1tMasecE1QaPS3cZBgx9NXIWTfMdaqI/s320/20171025_165041.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">right side of the denim feat. a mock stitch. If you look closely you can see the edge stitch that was created very close to the end of the fabric to make the stitch extra secure after steaming.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">The session this week taught me a lot about a variety of stitches that I will be using throughout my degree that I hadn't heard of before. I also really enjoyed beginning to learn how to use the machinery in the studios, the sewing machines work a lot faster than I first thought and there is a lot to remember when it comes to threading and operating one. Having never used an overlocker before it was exciting to be introduced to this and to learn off my peers from working in a small group to help each other.</span></div>
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Natasha Leannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05387219538011289713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3747938590264097352.post-78905509968240667012017-10-25T08:34:00.003-07:002017-10-25T08:34:38.606-07:00WEEK 10 - PATTERN CUTTING PERSONAL REFLECTION<h3 style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-weight: normal;"><u>Introduction to Pattern Cutting with Karen - 5th October 2017</u></span></h3>
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This week, after being set my initial brief I began my technical and practical workshops in my group with specialist tutors. On Thursday I took part in my first pattern cutting session, learning the fundamentals and a brief history of the craft of pattern cutting. I learnt which equipment I am required to use to do pattern cutting successfully, and also which areas such as understanding the human anatomy, analytical skills, knowledge of textiles and fashion awareness are all key to being able to start pattern cutting. </div>
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<i><b><u>Pattern primary blocks</u> </b></i>- Most patterns begin as a rectangle. Then add measurements for arms, necks, and darts. All pattern blocks start as halves. </div>
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<li>Fitted Bodice sits above the waist</li>
<li>Longer bodice (using a dress block) sits below the waist </li>
<li>Casual block (doesn't include darts) </li>
<li>Skirt block and trouser block - below the waist</li>
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<i style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration-line: underline;">Secondary blocks</i> - These are blocks that have had dimension changes or have been worked on in some way.</div>
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<u><b><i>Ways of achieving basic shapes learnt in my workshop</i></b></u></div>
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(1) Creating a size chart involves taking direct measurements from the body to make a pattern. Understanding body shape is essential to this. These measurements fall under:</div>
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<li>Bust</li>
<li>Waist</li>
<li>Hip</li>
<li>Nape to waist</li>
<li>Waist to knee </li>
<li>Over arm</li>
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(2) You can also create a block by 2D drafting using a generic size chart from a pattern cutting book. During this part of the session I learnt that brands all work from their own set of blocks that relate specifically to their customer. This is the reason for various high street brands (for example) to vary in their version or a size 10. I found that H&M sizes come up extremely small from personal experience, which I realise now could be based on the fact that the brands 'customer' may be generally smaller than the UK customer - as H&M is a Swedish company. </div>
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(3) Modelling directly onto the dress stand can provide a way to help you realise your design ideas by automatically bringing it to life in 3D. This method can then maybe be further manipulated through drawing, printing and photography. Anything made on the stand has to then be translated into 2D to make a pattern from it. </div>
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(4) You can also take a pattern from an existing garment but opening out the item to its original form, and reproducing it in your choice of fabric. This can be a good starting point for something that is well fitting which you already own to use as a guide and base. </div>
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(5) The last method we spoke about was starting with a block and building onto it in 3D. This method sounded quite interesting to me, as you are able to start with a strong core base and then have the opportunity to develop multiple 3D ideas using the stand, enabling you to visualise your outcomes and make changes using drawing of fabric.<b> If doing this it is important to pin your fabrics to each other and not the stand - so you are able to remove your work from the stand without interfering with your design aesthetic. </b></div>
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<u><i><b>The Potato Task - Understanding The Concept Of Pattern Cutting</b></i></u></div>
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To begin gaining an understanding of pattern cutting first hand, we were required to bring a potato to the first session. I was confused by this at first however at the end of the session it did help me see the technique a lot clearer.</div>
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First I covered the potato entirely in calico. Then, drew random lines all over the calico, lettered each line and cut along to remove the calico entirely. This had somewhat created a selection of 'pattern pieces' which could then be turned into 2D to create a block. It was necessary to cut into the pieces slightly to relieve the tension to make them flat, which created the same effect as darts - it all started to make sense. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calico after being removed from the potato and snipped to make 2D.</td></tr>
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The next step was to pin down my 'pattern pieces' and draw around them on paper to create my block. The letters enabled me to match up each point of my pattern with the correct other one.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Block created from drawing around my calico and creating a 2D block.<br /></td></tr>
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At this point, the exercise was over. If this was a real garment, technical requirements would be added at this point - however the use of the potato helped me to understand the principles of 3D to 2D pattern making. This block could technically now be remade in various fabrics to create a cover for my potato! I enjoyed learning the various ways pattern cutting could be approache this week, and the task using the potato helped me to visualise one of the ways and begin to see how these concepts can be brought to life. <div>
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Natasha Leannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05387219538011289713noreply@blogger.com0